Sunday, September 8, 2013

The (still) Noble Merlot


OK - I am finally starting a blog.  And of all things, my first topic is... that one-time darling of the United States,  the noble grape from Bordeaux - Merlot.  Yes, the "Pinot Girl" is going to write her first blog on MERLOT.  This wine, a main component of the French Bordeaux, and once the number one red wine of the US in the late 1980 to early 1990s, fell from grace to Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and the now infamous Pinot Noir.  So, why has America fallen out of love with this soft, velvety smooth wine?  Some lay the blame at the feet of a movie that had it out for the easy-to-drink, but quite often, ordinary wine.  But what really happened?

First, the palate of America is changing; yes, we still want a wine we can grab off the shelf and take home to drink with dinner, but we want that wine to have depth, to hold up to a juicy steak or a bold, spicy roast.  A flabby, soft, mediocre wine, like so many mid-priced California Merlots out there, just doesn't satisfy the elevated palate of the new wine drinkers. 
 
Second, maybe winemakers are questioning if it is worth the effort to create a magnificent wine only to have people say "I'm not drinking any F-ing Merlot!" to the laughter of their friends - I get it.  A lot of work goes into crafting a wine that excites people, but even more work is required to get people to TRY it, because it isn't the popular choice these days.  Might as well just use the juice to blend with your Cabernet or Syrah.

Then there is the price... it is difficult to find a decent California Merlot under $30.  We like a wine that is affordable as well as drinkable.  Sure, Cakebread Merlot is like a symphony of flavors on your tongue, but the $50+ pricetag is definitely a hit to the wallet many Americans are not willing to take.
 
I get excited when I come across a really good Merlot.  And I am overjoyed when I have a great Merlot.  Yes, there are some great Merlots out there.  On our recent trip to California we had several worth mentioning, all but one under $30.
 
St. Clement -  This was our first (and only) stop the afternoon as we arrived in Napa.  As club members, we were allowed to sit up on the top of the hill in the outdoor tasting area, with a picturesque view of the Napa Valley and the mountains to the East.  Their Napa Valley Merlot retails around $28 - A big, bold, beautiful dark crimson wine, with the smoothness of a vanilla cream soda, a kiss of chocolate and bursting with blueberries and ripe red berries.  We were all very impressed and savored every drop. 
 
Reynolds Family Winery - One of our favorite wineries to visit! Steve Reynolds gave us a personal tour of the barrel room and thieved several barrel samples for us.  In the tasting room, we enjoyed the Reserve Flight, which included their Stags Leap Merlot. Absolutely sublime, with beautiful chocolate and cherry aromas; medium bodied with a nice balance of fruit, tannins and a touch of spice. At $48, this Merlot represents the best of the varietal and all that is wonderful about Stags Leap district.
 
Charles Krug - Every trip we take to Napa includes a stop at Charles Krug.  The Peter Mondavi Family produces consistently excellent wines, and their 2010 Merlot, just under $25, is no exception. Notes of blueberries, blackberries and cherries are followed by the delicious flavors of cocoa and dark cherry.  A medium bodied Merlot-based Bordeaux blend that definitely excites the palate.

Michael Mondavi Family - The tasting room, located in a former farmhouse in the heart of Carneros, is my "Happy Place".  Sitting on the back porch, overlooking acres of vineyard as the wind dances through the vines, the rustling grape leaves become a calming wind chime. The Oberon Merlot complemented the mood, delivering a velvet smooth, blueberry-vanilla sensation.  Another amazing Merlot for under $30.  

I continue my search for hidden gems; always thankful for the winemakers in California who continue to make exceptional wines, and deciding to make Merlot one of those wines.  In upcoming blogs, I'll keep this train of thought and review some great Merlots under $30.  Of course, I must give time to other wines, as well as recall highlights of the wineries we visited recently, so come back in about a week.  Thanks for checking in!